Johnblog

So we bade farewell to Terre Di Nano and Tuscany and set off for our next place in Umbria. On the way we popped into Perugia for a quick look round. It was (as always) an interesting ride up tiny narrow cobbled streets to the top of the hill where it seemed that parking was restricted to residents only. After we translated the signs, Bob had to back out of one spot – nearly backing into a police car with its lights flashing! This was no ordinary police car, it was a Lamborghini painted police blue with Carabinieri written down the sides and blue flashing strobes on the roof (the roof of course was about a metre off the ground). We managed to find a legitimate spot near the top and took a stroll into the historic square to find the Lamborghini parked in the middle with a small crowd of locals and tourists having their pictures taken with it and the Carabinieri posing alongside. We walked around a local street antiques market which had lots of interesting stuff including a collection of Masonic watches and a wonderfully over-engineered pencil sharpener the size of a small sewing machine.
After lunch we set off past Assisi for our next home, the Agrotourismo Genius Loci near the small walled town of Bevagna. It took us several goes to find the place but after some interesting detours down wingmirror-scraping alleys we got there. Lovely spot overlooking the valley and the Monte Sibilini range of high peaks. We checked in and plunged in the pool to cool off. We went back to Bevagna in the evening for a splendid meal and a bottle of the local wine.

By fortune we found out about an historical reenactment in Montepulciano and we bought tickets. It was to start at 10pm so we booked a table in a well-regarded nearby restaurant, the Osteria Aquaceta, for 7.30. The meal was memorable. We had some modest pastas for starters and for the main course, a steak Florentine between the four of us. It was a 1.8 kilo T-bone at 30 euros a kilo. It was about eight centimetres thick. The restaurant owner came and drew the shape of it on the paper tablecloth and we agreed it should be done rare. It came on a huge platter cut through into long chunks with a lovely crusty exterior and a very rare centre. It looked huge but my doubts were unfounded and we scoffed the lot. Phew, delicious meat overdose washed down with a bargain carafe (or two) of the local Sangiovese.
Then off to the main square for the pageant – the annual Corto Dei Ceri – or procession of the candles. The candles were huge ones carried by nobles in medieval costume into the floodlit town square and handed over to the priest for use in the cathedral. There was much spectacle, the best being a display of flag throwing by youths in costume. There was lots of colour and movement and drama and plenty of insistent drumming to accompany the flight of the flags high into the air and safely down into the hands of the skilled catchers.

We came down from the Duomo and wandered about some more, seeing the statue of David by Michelangelo (well, ok, it was the full-size replica but is was still impressive) and plenty more statues, squares and wonderful buildings. We grabbed a gelato to cool us as we made our way back to the railway station. The journey back was uneventful except for finding a parking ticket under the car wiper. Damn! Still, it was only 23 euros.

Wednesday. We rose early and drove 40 minutes to catch the train to Firenze for the day. Early rising was a bonus – there was a spectacular dawn glow in the sky showing the hill towns standing out above the mists in the valleys. Kodak moment. The Tom Tom navigator was very useful and got us to the railway station at Chiusi with plenty of time to spare. I parked nearby and put in all my spare change (about nine euros) to get a ticket until 5pm. We were planning to return about 7pm but I thought I’d chance it for the last couple of hours.
Getting tickets was straightforward – first class of course (about 42 euros return). The train was quick, but very dirty and with a very rattly airconditioner. A couple opposite us were dressed very smartly – Jan said she had never seen a shirt ironed to such perfection.

Firenze and a walk from the station to the River Arno and the famous Ponte Vecchio. Very beautiful and some very expensive jewellery shops. We grab a coffee and a brioche at an outdoor cafe and head for the Uffizi gallery. We had pre-booked tickets with the help of our very gracious host at the Terre Di Nano, Georgio. This was supposed to avoid the huge queue outside – but we still  had to queue to collect our tickets! Only about 10 minutes though. Then we queue again to get through the metal detectors at the entrance. Inside we lose ourselves for a couple of hours in the wonderful paintings – all those famous ones you have seen in books but never in real life. We had a couple of beers and shared a panino at the snack bar at theUffizi -which has a spectacular rooftop setting with the tower of the next door palazzo – er- towering over it.Then to the Duomo – again very spectacular. Jan decides she wants to go to the cupola at the top – up 480 steps. I think, well, the view is probably brilliant. We queue for 20 minutes and then, ignoring all the signs about weak hearts and old age, we start up the steps. I forgot to mention that it is about 35 degrees and humid in Firenze! Yes, the views are brilliant and yes, you could easily just die on the way up the tiny winding stone stairs. On the way down my legs start to wobble and I suspect I might never walk straight again. We get a grand view of the inside of the cupola – wonderful paintings of hell with devils poking flaming brands up people’s bottoms. It looks like a piece of cake compared to walking up all those stairs.